Nothing Out of the Ordinary | Plus-size Models
This is a really, really long post.
I’ve covered the general tips for posing but haven’t considered “plus-size” tips and tricks for styling and posing yet. As “plus-size” myself (I am a pretty curvy gal and due to a rough work schedule one summer, my size was bumped up to a 12 U.S./16 U.K.), I realized that some of the tips in the previous posts don’t work that well when you’ve got a little more meat on your bones. I don’t super like the label plus-size because, in all honesty, it’s bullshit to generalize by an arbitrary number that is never consistent but for general consumption, this was the best way to go about describing who this post is for. I’m making this a super dedicated post so I’ll try to cover as much as I can about styling, posing, etc. Of course, these tips are also applicable to anyone no matter shape, size, gender, etc.
Ashley Graham is a fantastic source of inspiration for posing as a plus-size model.
Let’s have an honest conversation with zero judgement. Being curvy or having a few love-handles and stretch-marks is fine and can be really sexy on their own. So long as you are staying healthy and you’re happy, it’s whatever. However, there are some things you need to consider differently when being photographed so you look your absolute best (which is not to say how to make you look your thinnest because that’s not true or conducive to appreciating the body you do have.)
Firstly, lighting.
Lighting plays a huge part in how our bodies and faces photograph. Experiment taking selfies with the camera lens at eye-level at different times of the day or under different types of light to find what lighting makes you look how you like best. I promise you, natural light at noon when the sun is directly above you versus natural light at 9am when the sun is facing you versus light under a fluorescent lightbulb will make you look different each time! As you can see in Ashley’s picture above, the sun is to her left, giving her natural highlights that help accentuate all the best parts of her curves and face.
Another tip is to keep your limbs apart so less light is trapped and more shadows are created to show depth. For example, in the picture above again, you can see Ashley’s arm, while in front of her body, is not pressed against her body—now, it’s not flush and pressed down so it appears less wide AND it stands out from her body so there’s shape created and it doesn’t blend into one mass.
Secondly, clothing.
Clothing plays an equally important part in how the eye registers shapes. Things like color, pattern, fabric, cut, accessories, and more will make a difference. Here’s a few quick tips for clothing and accessorizing:
On camera (and only on camera so don’t shy away from it otherwise), white will absorb more light and draw attention to where the color is. That does not mean you shouldn’t wear white at all but that you should be strategic with wear you want to draw attention to.
Solid colors are a solid choice always. With colors, there are no wrong colors as long as the colors complement your complexion.
Monochrome is a classic, elegant look that is difficult to mess up! Try using different shades of the same color to add dimension and character.
Using the color wheel to color block (I’m using a really simplified color wheel above to make this easy to follow):
Use 2-3 analogous (or adjacent) colors to create a serene and comfortable image. For example, using red and orange or blue and green to harmonize the outfits. Choose one color to dominate, a second to support. The third color, if used, is used (along with black, white or gray) as an accent.
Use complementary colors a.k.a. directly opposite colors on the color wheel. The high contrast of complementary colors creates a vibrant look especially when used at full saturation. For example, green and red or orange and blue.
Use the split-complementary color scheme. It’s a variation of the complementary color scheme. In addition to the base color, it uses the two colors adjacent to its complement. The split-complimentary color scheme is often a good choice for beginners, because it is difficult to mess up. For example, green, purple, and orange.
With patterns, the general rule of thumb is to wear prints that are in proportion to the scale of the body. If you’re especially nervous to wear print, try watercolor prints to start—they’re extremely forgiving and flattering!
For stripes, asymmetrical stripes or stripes that angle inward help slim your waistline. Horizontal stripes emphasize width and vertical stripes emphasize height so use these strategically! More trade secrets: Thinner stripes tend to make you look more svelte than thick ones do, and a dark background with lighter-colored stripes is far superior to the other way around. Go forth and stripe!
Optimize for outfits with cuts design details that create shape, like darts, ruching, and wrapping to emphasize curves and minimize any areas that you may not like (personally, it’s my tummy and thighs). Curved princess seams in the sides of jackets and shirts will give you more of a designated waist. Empire waistlines are not easy to pull-off as they can give off a maternity dress vibe but if the goal is to balance a heavier bottom and bring attention to your bust, they do work. Even ruffles can do their part: be strategic about where they’re placed—vertical ruffles on one side of a skirt or dress are elongating, and they’re also pretty on sleeves, cuffs, and the hem of the skirt for drawing the eye.
If you’re looking for lingerie or swimwear, high cut legs elongate your legs while high-waisted or tight/corseted bottoms cinch your waist and give you shape! You’ll see examples in the video on posing by Anita Sadowska below!
That’s all on clothing but I have many more thoughts and tips I’ve learnt from studying lookism as well as trial and error on myself. Here’s a fun video by Ashley Graham (I adore her) on wearing everything plus-size ladies have been told not to and rocking it:
“Ashley Graham's How To Wear Everything You’ve Been Told Not To | Fashion Advice” by Glamour
Thirdly, hair and makeup.
Just like with clothing, hair and makeup can change the way the eye registers light, shadows, and shape. Also, on camera, color is so important to not look washed out or one-dimensional. Almost any makeup tutorial will cover the basics you should know if you’re wearing makeup but I thought I’d leave some resources here geared toward plus-size makeup tutorials. The only difference is the techniques used to target certain areas like cheeks and chins that some ladies don’t particularly like (I contour my jawline ALL the time). Hair can be used to frame your face and create shape which can 100% change the game—just play around in the mirror and remember that movement in your hair like waves or curls or volume is always more flattering than limp hair. Enjoy watching:
1. “Instagram Baddie Makeup” by Nabela Noor
Her color correction and contouring is always so on pointe! She also shows you a little how to frame your face with your hair at the end which takes the look up a couple notches.
2. “Get Rid of Double Chin/Turkey Neck Instant Using Makeup!” by Michael Finch
The title and the thumbnail pretty much explain the concept here but this is a very technical tutorial that teaches targeting contouring.
3. “How to Make a BIG Nose look Small | Nose Contouring” by Michael Finch
Another targeted contouring tutorial! Ugh, I love how makeup can enhance or even completely change features. It’s all up to you how you want to do your makeup and how intense your color and shadows come through but always good to have skills under your belt!
4. “Makeup Mistakes to Avoid” by Ali Andreea
This isn’t specific to plus-size models but there’s many amazing tips and tricks in this video that can change the game completely!
Lastly, posing.
This requires more videos because posing is so much easier to learn visually:
1. “How To Pose Plus Size Women” by Anita Sadowska
SO MUCH to learn here! From styling to posing to lighting! If you don’t care to remember anything else from this post, just keep this video on hand!
2. “Photoshoot with a Plus Size Model + Tips and Tricks on Posing” by Irene Rudnyk
Again, another amazing video you should keep on hand that covers so much and is just perfect to watch as either a photographer or model. I’ve watched this video maybe 15 times and I’m still learning new things each time.
3. “Ashley Graham Directs Women In Their First Lingerie Shoot” by Glamour
I couldn’t not include an Ashley Graham video. She’s absolutely fantastic and body positive and just such a great model!
That’s about all I can include in this post today but I think I definitely will do a Part 2 at some point when I can do more research and maybe even my own shoot with a plus-size model. To cap us off, here’s Ashley in all her glory:
Remember, she’s had a baby and she’s still a world-famous supermodel who just happens to be plus-size. You’re just as perfect.